Eclair con craquelin al miele, chiantilly al miele d'arancio, pistacchi pralinati e polvere di bergamotto

Titolo lunghissimo, da far invidia alla sora Cornali. Ma non ho resistito: dovevo metterci dentro tutto, perché proprio il tutto ha funzionato col mio palato (ebbene sì solo con il mio e quindi se i sapori non convincono prendetevela solo con la sottoscritta!). Ho dovuto, con mia enorme sofferenza, provare e riprovare i diversi abbinamenti e sono arrivata a questo.
Quando è uscito il tema della sfida n. 54 dell'Mtchallenge ho subito pensato: grandi!
Eleonora e Michael ovviamente.Tema bellissimo, che offre tanti spunti. Ma come spesso mi accade mi sono "infognata" con le prime idee che mi sono venute in mente e da lì non sono riuscita a smuovermi.
Da presuntuosa che sono, ai fornelli intendo, ho subito immaginato un eclair bellissima con un craquelin al miele, con una soffice mousse al miele e dei pistacchi pralinati. 
Poi tra il dire e il fare c'è l'incapacità!
Comincio dalle éclairs. Provate quattro volte: prima una ricetta in cui oltre l'acqua c'era il latte ed ho avuto problemi in cottura. Provate a cuocerle in due modi diversi, ma senza risultato.
Poi bocchetta troppo grande: delle éclairs enormi.
Poi sono tornata al classico, con la ricetta di Escoffier, ma sempre senza la bocchetta adatta. Risultato? Eclair molto sottili, ma ho deciso che un altro tentativo non l'avrei retto.
Non sono pasticciera, ma cuoca e la pasticceria non è roba per me.
Il craquelin. Senza pensare "rubo" una ricetta online, ma mentre impasto mi rendo conto che non era affatto quello a cui stavo pensando, ma dei cracker (per altro buonissimi che prima o poi posterò):
Improvviso in altro modo e ottengo il risultato voluto.
Per la mousse. Primo tentativo con un miele di melata d'agrumi. Sapore fortissimo.
Volevo restare sugli agrumi e così scelgo un miele italiano all'arancio.
La mousse si trasforma in chantilly: quello che cercavo era una consistenza più morbida.
Per i pistacchi. Ho modificato la ricetta delle mandorle pralinate di Sandra Venturoli Vacchi, ricetta presente sl libro Dolci Regali. Il risultato non mi ha deluso. Importante non scegliere dei pistacchi salati.
Mancava qualcosa e sono andata a ripescare la polvere di bergamotto della sfida precedente: richiama gli agrumi del miele rendendo più armonioso il tutto.



Craquelin al miele d'arancio:

100 g di farina di grano tenero 00
50 g di miele d'arancio
50 g di zucchero di canna
80 g di burro

Lavorate la farina con il miele e lo zucchero. Unite il burro a temperatura ambiente. 
Stendete tra due strati di carta forno ad un'altezza di 2-3 millimetri. Trasferite in freezer fino all'utilizzo.



Pasta beignet normale ( ricetta tratta da la Guida alla Grande Cucina di  Escoffier):

1 l di acqua
375 g di burro
15 g di sale
25 g di zucchero
500 g di farina passata al setaccio (io una 00 con il 12% di proteine)
16 uova medie
una cucchiaiata di acqua di fiori d'arancio 
ho utilizzato metà dose

Accendete il forno statico a 240°.
Mettete l'acqua, il burro, il sale e lo zucchero in una casseruola e fate prendere l'ebollizione. Ririrate dal fuoco, aggiungete la farina, mescolate e fate asciugare a fuoco vivo finché la pasta non si attacchi più al cucchiaio e trasudi leggermente.
Aggiungete, quindi, molto lontano dal fuoco le uova molto lentamente. Ho inserito in planetaria con foglia e fatto andare l'impasto a velocità media per qualche minuto, fino a quando la temperatura non è scesa sotto i 50 ° per evitare la cottura delle uova. Attenzione con l'inserimento delle uova, dipende molto dalla capacità di assorbimento della farina. Mi sono regolata seguendo il consiglio di Bressanini: l'impasto è pronto quando cadendo dalla foglia forma una sorta di V e non cade in maniera compatta. 
Trasferite in una sac a poche con bocchetta rigata da 1 1/2 cm (che non avevo) e procedete alla formatura delle eclairs che deve avvenire sulla teglia precedentemente imburrata, senza carta forno che rischia di compromettere la cottura omogenea. Disponetevi sopra una striscia di craquelin e infornate.
Per la cottura. Inserite, abbassate la temperatura a 200° fino a che non si gonfino, abbassate ulteriormente a 180° e fate cuocere per 30 minuti. Fate asciugare per altri 10 minuti a 150°.
Lasciate nel forno spento con porta socchiusa fino a completo raffreddamento.



Per la crema pasticciera al miele (ricetta di Leonardo Di Carlo presa qui):

500 g di latte fresco
125 g di panna fresca
150 g di tuorli
95 g di miele d’acacia arancio
50 g di amido di riso
1 g di sale fino
In una casseruola portate a bollore il latte e la panna. Nel frattempo fate una pastella con amido, miele, sale e tuorli e gira fino a quando diventerà liscia. Appena latte e panna arrivano a bollore versateli sul composto, girate velocemente con una frusta e rimettete tutto nella casseruola a fiamma dolce. Cuocete fino ad addensamento, quindi versate in una teglia bassa e larga coperta con carta forno, coprite a contatto con pellicola trasparente, fate raffreddare e mettete in frigorifero. Si conserva per 2-3 giorni.
Per la chantilly:
125 ml di panna liquida
Montate la panna e unitela alla crema pasticciera fredda.



Per i pistacchi pralinati:
125 g di pistacchi
500 g di zucchero semolato
62 ml di acqua
62 g di zucchero semolato
Eliminate la pellicina ai pistacchi. Ungete bene il boccale della planetaria e versatevi i pistacchi. 
Portate sul fuoco l'acqua con lo zucchero fino alla temperatura di 150 °. Non avendo il termometro ho usato gli occhi: non deve caramellare, un attimo prima versatelo sui pistacchi con la foglia in movimento. Unite lo zucchero rimasto e procedete a scatti fino a quando non avranno una copertura liscia. Trasferite su una teglia ricoperta di carta forno e fate raffreddare completamente.


Per la povere di bergamotto:
fate seccare delle scorze di bergamotto, dopo averle ben ripulite dalla parte bianca.
Una volta secche si sbricioleranno da sole.
Composizione. 
Tagliare l'eclair e farcirla con la crema chantilly. Richiudere e cospargere coi pistacchi e la polvere.



Con questa ricetta partecipo all'Mtchallenge n. 54



Commenti

  1. Tu non sei normale, ecco...l'ho detto ! adesso tutto il pomeriggio penserò alla polvere di bergamotto e ho tante cose da fare...una di quelle è comporre il mio post che adesso mi vergogno di pubblicare !

    RispondiElimina
  2. Ok, non sei una pasticciera, sei un cuoca, eppure un sospetto che con la tua abituale caparbietà tu possa fare qualsiasi cosa, è diventata certezza oramai. Questo dolce è stratosferico. Credo che la mia prossima fissa sia il craquelin ma forse anche l'éclair...sei un virus letale!
    Magnifica Cristiana. Un fortissimo abbraccio, Pat

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Il craquelin non l'avevo mai provato e non so neanche se dovrebbe esser così, fatto sta che è una figata: lo metterò ovunque! :-D

      Elimina
  3. Urka, che meraviglia. Sono le uniche parole che mi escono accompagnate dall'invidia buona per la tua immensa pazienza e per le tue evidenti capacità. Bellissimo dolce

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. pazienza? Stavo per lanciare tutto contro la finestra!

      Elimina
  4. Bellissima proposta! Mi sono letteralmente incantata nella lettura, immaginandone i sapori.
    Non mangio dolci, ma questo mi ha fatto venire l' acquolina.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Grazie mille: spero che i sapori siano arrivati!

      Elimina
  5. Cri...ma per fortuna che non ti diletti troppo in pasticceria perché se no, nel giro di due mesi, ci asfalti tutte!!!
    Sono bellissimi e quella crema mi fa fare gli urletti di goduria solo a vederla!
    Sai che non sapevo che il craquelin sugli eclairs si facesse così?? Che fiko!
    E che mega ricetta che hai tirato fuori!! Sei troppo forte!!!

    RispondiElimina
  6. Ecco se tu non sei pasticcera...hai tirato fuori gli eclairs da Escoffier, che io amo e venero, la crema da Di Carlo, poi ci hai aggiunto tutto ciò che era necessario per renderlo un piatto stupendo. Io vorrei davvero tanto assaggiarlo, tantissimo anzi.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Prima o poi, nel frattempo mi perfeziono

      Elimina
  7. Stecchita! Ecco come sono in questo momento: in primis perché ammiro la tua perseveranza e poi per questo risultato da pauuuuura. Fantastica!

    RispondiElimina
  8. Stica...Cri!! Quando ho cominciato a leggere il post ( a proposito, grazie per la citazione :) ) mi sono molto immedesimata: gran passione per la cucina, ma la pasticceria non fa per me e la mia proverbiale cialtroneria. Poi leggo la ricetta e, ripeto, stica!!....ma come ti vengono? Mai nella vita troverei il coraggio per affrontare simili lavorazioni e per ripeterle pure inseguendo l'ideale di perfezione. Ti ammiro e ti stimo tantissimo. Brava brava brava. Non sai quanto vorrei affondare i denti in quella goduria.....

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. e ti dirò che ho intenzione di riprovarci usando il becco giusto. Mi vengono come vengono a te, anzi molto peggio!

      Elimina
  9. Caspita che determinazione! Credo che mi sarei arresa molto prima...e invece tu hai tirato fuori una meraviglia. I craquelin li sogno da tanto, non so cosa stia ancora aspettando a farli. La crema al miele di Di Carlo la conosco e mi piace moltissimo, anche perché è molto delicata, non sfacciata come altri dolci a base di miele. I pistacchi, no comment. Bellissima proposta.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Hai ragione: è delicatissima, il sapore del miele arriva dopo

      Elimina
  10. MIZZECA!!! non riesco a dire altro....

    RispondiElimina
  11. Magnifici!!!! Spettacolari!!! Supersonici!
    ... Eh si mi piacciono proprio e fu crei sempre piatti fantastici!

    RispondiElimina
  12. Non amo particolarmente i dolci ma sei riuscita a lasciarmi senza parole per la quantità industriale di acquolina in bocca... Complimenti! Ricetta fantastica.

    RispondiElimina
  13. Tu chiamala se vuoi...incapacità. ma sì, te possino Cristiana!
    E io non sono pasticciera, sono una cuoca. ma sì, te possino bis, Cristiana!
    E chiamala presunzione...io lo chiamerei perfezionismo, voglia di crescere, di imparare, di fare le cose per bene, chiamala passione, che sai contagiare attraverso lo schermo. E te possino tris.
    Io non so come ti siano venuti in mente questi abbinamenti così accertati, il dettaglio della polvere di bergamotto, acido/amaro che rivitalizza il tutto e il craqueline (improvvisato!!!) perfetto. Ma da che pianeta vieni?
    I giudici rclamano l'assaggio :))
    Fantastica. Un Grazie immenso.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Quando scrivo che mi fido del mio palato parlo di un qualcosa che conosco: sarà strano ma i sapori li ho nel cervello prima ancora di assaggiarli. La polvere di bergamotto l'avevo assaggiata per la sfida precedente, che a sua volta avevo intuito sfregando la scorza tra le mani e l'ho immaginata in questo insieme. E' quasi come se avessi i sapori piantati nel cervello.

      Elimina
  14. Per fortuna che non sei pasticcera: sono rimasta secca al solo leggere la genesi della ricetta, altro che storie! Tutto perfetto, tutto ben studiato, armonizzato, accostato... Grandissima!!!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Grazie, mi fa piacere sia arrivata la costruzione

      Elimina
  15. Oh sì, verissimo, quelle éclaires sono troppo sottili. troppo troppo.
    Ma se non lo fossero, quel bellissimo craquelin e i pistacchi pralinati sarebbero di troppo insieme. lo guardo e lo riguardo, lo immagino, cerco di sentirlo in bocca. Esplode.
    Hai creato un dolce dalle proporzioni perfette. Il sottile choux, la crema generosa e profumata, e il giusto di praliné e polvere di bergamotto. Tutti i sapori scelti a mio avviso stanno insieme in armonia tra loro, si bilanciano, si equilibrano, così come le consistenze. Tutto è in perfetto equilibrio, dal cremoso al croccante, al polveroso acido amaro. Anche la scelta del miele di fiori d'arancio con i pistacchi è un felicissimo accostamento.
    I miei complimenti più vivi.
    e Grazie.

    RispondiElimina
  16. accostamenti di gusto per un risultato eccezionale! Complimenti Cristiana!

    RispondiElimina
  17. bellissimo il craquelin al miele! e la polevere di bergamotto a sottolineare i gusti, poi amo i pistacchi, grande dolce! :-)

    RispondiElimina
  18. grande Cri come al solito sei mitica nella tua creatività abbinata ad una gran tecnica (che per me non hanno nulla da invidiare a fior di pasticceri) si percepisce come al solito la tua grande passione bravissima

    RispondiElimina
  19. Non importa se non ti senti una pasticcera...questo tuo è un grandissimo dolce!!! E l'unica cosa che non mi piace è che non l'ho fatto io ;)

    RispondiElimina
  20. Non importa se non ti senti una pasticcera...questo tuo è un grandissimo dolce!!! E l'unica cosa che non mi piace è che non l'ho fatto io ;)

    RispondiElimina
  21. te la faccio breve.
    Spero che i posteri riconoscano questa ricetta come una delle più immensamente geniali e creative della storia del foodblogging.
    Per i contemporanei, non c'è speranza.
    Ma speriamo in qualche ravvedimento nei secoli futuri. Intanto, la segno alla voce "le cucine dell'altra Galassia". Alla voce tecnica, cretività e godimento dei sensi. tutte le stelle di quel firmamento sono le tue,, Cri. Strepitosa

    RispondiElimina
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